Manufacturers mark their bows with serial numbers. These numbers are usually found on labels attached to the bow itself. There are different ways to find these serial numbers. Some manufacturers put stickers on the bows while others engrave the numbers to the riser or attach a little plate.
1. The Serial Number: These bows usually have, what appears to be a hand inscription on one of the limbs that gives a serial number along with the length and pull weight of the bow. This serial number works very well for dating Bear Bows from 1965-1969 when the first digit of the serial number is the year of manufacture.
Bear Bow Serial Number Lookup
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Prior to 1965, the serial numbers for all Bear bows were started over every month, making these bows almost impossible to date by serial number alone. The "K" series of serial numbers (for example KZ9672) were started in 1970.
Date your Bear bow by serial number if it was made between 1965 and 1969. Serial numbers were placed on the limbs of most Bear bows, along with the weight and length of the bow. The first number stood for the year of manufacturing. So, a "5" at the beginning meant it was made in 1965, a "6" was made in 1966, a "7" in 1967, an "8" in 1968 and "9" at the beginning meant it was made in 1969.
Every manufacturer has its unique way of identifying the age of their bows. Some have used serial numbers since their first production. Meanwhile, some are difficult to guess because of the rapid marking changes over the years. Unfortunately, Bear Archery is one of them.
The Kodiak was introduced in 1950 with the bi-directional glass and the aluminum lamination. Then in early 1951, just as with the Grizzly, the new uni-directional glass was introduced but the aluminum lamination was still present. This glass change apparently occurred around serial number 5000. Then in mid-1951, the aluminum lamination was dropped. So for 1951 you will find Kodiaks with aluminum and bi-directional glass, aluminum with uni-directional glass, and no-aluminum with uni-directional glass.
Note - Although officially discontinued in 1972, several parts for these bows remained on the shelves at Bear, and a few "A" and "B" models were assembled in 1973 and 1974. These later assemblies can be recognized by their white serial numbers.
Some collectors place significance on the year of the manufacture of the take-down relative to the value of the bow. Actually, more than year, the collector should be referring to Type. The first models made in 1969/1970, up through serial number 2000, are referred to as Type I’s. Models made in 1971 and later are correctly referred to as Type II’s, due to a change in the riser style.
Note - The serial numbers of all the Take-Downs begin with a letter which designates the riser style. For example, and "A" handle will have a serial number which begins with an "A", a "B" handle will have a serial number which begins with a "B", etc.
According to research done by Al Reader of New Jersey, who by the way is considered by most to be the most knowledgeable Bear collector alive, serial numbers work very well for dating Bear bows, but only for the years 1965-1969 when the first digit of the serial number is the year of manufacture. For example, a serial number of 6Z3884 would be a 1966 bow. Prior to 1965, the serial numbers for all Bear bows were started over every month, making these bows almost impossible to date by serial number alone. The "K" series of serial numbers (for example KZ9399) were started in 1970.
Compound bows have serial numbers. Where they are located is dependent on the manufacturer of the bow. If you are unable to locate the serial number on your compound bow, you can always contact the manufacturer, and they will provide clear instructions on how to locate it.Now that you know that compound bows do have serial numbers, you might be wondering what that means for you, as the owner. Having a serial number on your bow means safety, security, and assurance. It is also a means to find out important and relevant information.
On an older Darton bow, the serial number is located on a sticker. Sometimes the sticker is gone. If so, you should contact Darton and provide them with sufficient information..u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .postImageUrl,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .centered-text-areamin-height:80px;position:relative.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:hover,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:visited,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:activeborder:0!important.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .clearfix:aftercontent:"";display:table;clear:both.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635display:block;transition:background-color 250ms;webkit-transition:background-color 250ms;width:100%;opacity:1;transition:opacity 250ms;webkit-transition:opacity 250ms;background-color:#7f8c8d.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:active,.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:hoveropacity:1;transition:opacity 250ms;webkit-transition:opacity 250ms;background-color:#d35400.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .centered-text-areawidth:100%;position:relative.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .ctaTextborder-bottom:0 solid #fff;color:#ecf0f1;font-size:16px;font-weight:700;margin:0;padding:0;text-decoration:underline.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .postTitlecolor:#2c3e50;font-size:16px;font-weight:600;margin:0;padding:0;width:100%.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .ctaButtonbackground-color:#95a5a6!important;color:#ecf0f1;border:none;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 0;font-size:14px;font-weight:700;line-height:26px;moz-border-radius:3px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;text-shadow:none;width:80px;min-height:80px;background:url( -content/plugins/intelly-related-posts/assets/images/simple-arrow.png?ezimgfmt=ng%3Awebp%2Fngcb1)no-repeat;position:absolute;right:0;top:0.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:hover .ctaButtonbackground-color:#e67e22!important.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .centered-textdisplay:table;height:80px;padding-left:18px;top:0.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635 .u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635-contentdisplay:table-cell;margin:0;padding:0;padding-right:108px;position:relative;vertical-align:middle;width:100%.u6139d252605ee6ed0b12084fbd482635:aftercontent:"";display:block;clear:bothAlso Read: How To Make A Foam Archery Target [in a few easy steps]You are probably able to find the serial number under the grip plate or on the limb.Find a PSE Nova compound bow serial numberThe serial number of a PSE Nova compound bow is located on the inside of the lower limb of the bow. Just near the handle.Find a Parker compound bow serial numberIf you are looking for the serial number of a Parker compound bow, you should look at the lower limb. On the backside, near the bottom of the riser, there is a label that indicates the serial number.
PSE Archery: -support/Mathews: -your-serial-number/Bear Archery: -and-registrationDiamond Archery: ThoughtsNow you know if your compound bow has a serial number, why, and how this benefits you. Remember to keep a record of the serial number of all of your bows so that you can have security in any situation.
I'll be verifying my copy of this book one of these days. In the notes you state "Copyright page includes the code "D 1979/0265/306", whose meaning (other than the publication year) the verifier does not understand". The code is explained here, in Dutch of course. In short, the structure of the code is D/JJJJ/XXXX/YY, and is mandatory for anything published in or about Belgium. The D stands for "wettelijk depot" or "dépot legal", JJJJ is the year of publication, XXXX is the code given to the publisher by the Royal Library of Belgium, and YY is the serial number of the publication (for this publisher, in the year of publication). Thus D 1979/0265/306 means this is the 306th publication by "Het Spectrum" in 1979. --Willem 18:04, 28 May 2015 (UTC)
You loaded an image of a publication of the Jules Verne book "Les Indes noires". The notes say this is for the first edition (1877-04), but your image is of the first illustrated edition (1877-09). The earlier one is the in-18 format (say pocketbook size) and had no illustrations. The latter is the in-8 format (typical hc or the day) and had illustrations from the (even earlier) serialization. I believe this would account for the OCLC confusion on the number of pages. I'm trying to complete/clean up the Jules Verne first editions and just got this far. I just wanted to check what you know before trying to re-organize this entry. Thanks. ../Doug H 10:45, 10 January 2019 (EST) 2ff7e9595c
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